Mr. & Mrs. Bill & Betty, members of Pastor Reece’s Baptist congregation, hosted me last night on their 500-acre ranch. A “day off” for me, I spent nearly a full 24 hours with them, learning plenty about central Texas farm life, which has kept them both active for over twenty years. Bill was raised a “city kid,” and retired as a school superintendent for a small district just outside Houston. He’s been enjoying the farm life much more. Betty grew up here, near Mullin, and they seem thoroughly satisfied with staying busy here on the farm since “retirement” began. They’re really fun to spend time with. In a variety of ways, I have more in common with them than with many people my age…

After a wonderful Saturday surprise of a Fredericksburg side trip with cousins Mike & Tia Throop + kids, today is the day to continue walking from Brownwood. I awoke just before 6:30 AM outside the Baptist Church in Early, Texas, to a very darkly lit sky. Still inside the nearby gas station, which has a TV giving weather reports, I’m seeing that the most severe systems, hail-dropping thunderstorms, are now passing north of us. We’re seeing light rain and 20mph winds here. It hasn’t rained here in months, and most serious storms occur in the late afternoon or evening hours. So, yes, leaving feels like an intimidating option, given that I’ll be back walking through miles of wide-open spaces, likely without an emergency-saving cell signal.
That said, I feel the strong energy within to at least attempt to move forward, despite how many miles I actually succeed with today.
For the first time this year, my rain gear is on. I’m digging out the waterproof socks too, just in case. The windy road ahead is heavy with uncertainty, yet I’m ready to faithfully walk forward, and make the best of what the universe is about to bring my way…

UPDATE:

20 miles today to Mullin, population 175. I had rain gear on all day. I reached town at 8 PM, found three churches, and saw a woman on a porch smoking. I asked her for pastors’ names/locations, she pointed me to Pastor Reece Bishop of the local Baptist Church.
Reece invited me in immediately (no need for the tent!). We’ve been talking now for hours (CST here). Lots to write about him– what an awesome, open man.

Lucky #13!
Having made it to Cross Plains in the mid afternoon, I first stopped for a large, refreshing sub sandwich. I arrived without invitation here in Cross Plains, so I went to research at which of the local churches I might camp out for the night. Locals tell me that coyotes and many other small animals roam city streets at night. A pack of howling coyotes came within half a block of my lonely tent last night, and though I hear they’re of little risk, I still feel comfortable with a bit more space.
Cross Plains’ Baptist Church is medium large. They have a gated area that leads to many rooms, with a nicely kept lawn in the middle. No residences were too close (meaning no loud, late-night alert dogs). THIS was the premiere camping spot of all churches in town.
I found the # for the church, and though I was a little hesitant, a bit of cost-benefit analysis had me favoring calling the pastor, Ronnie White.
White responded with immediate enthusiasm: “Well, I suppose that would be fine, but how’d you like your own room, with a shower and a comfortable bed?” Pastor White had seen me walking Hwy 36 from Abilene, and was now making me an offer I couldn’t refuse. “Turn around and walk back to the local motel, and I’ll be there waiting for you.”
Yes sir!
I arrived to Harley-riding Pastor White’s energetic welcome, and the happy Gujarati owners gave us some tasty Indian treats they’d just made. Storytelling, handshakes, and thank-yous filled the next few minutes, before reaching the room, showering clean of all the sticky, salty sweat, and settling in for the evening.
Time for a good night’s rest, before tomorrow’s 22 miles, a day for which I also have no idea how it will end…

Last night’s marathon of a walk brought me to Pyote, population 133. I camped on this historic marker of the former WWII Rattlesnake Bomber Base.

Having arrived at 3 AM, the night air was fresh enough to simply lay out tentless. However, after reading this sign carefully (how the base earned its nickname), the tent came out!

George Throop
March 4, 2011 via HTC Sense
Another of the endless benefits of walking. Had I reached Monahans with any other means of transportation this evening, I would’ve missed meeting these two!

Arriving to Monahans…

Upon arriving, a newspaper reporter recommended that I get a bite to eat at a local Chinese restaurant. I followed up and did so, and upon going to pay for the meal, I was told, “another customer already paid for your meal.” (This brought a tear to my eye– WOW!!!)

I was expecting to simply seek out safe, Spartan shelter somewhere this evening, as I did last night, as I do always. And this is where I’m ending up tonight: Monahans Best Western Suites. Story: a local reporter saw me walking, and stopped for the story. Within an hour, he’d contacted the local county judge, who called up the local Chamber of Commerce, who booked this room for me. And I was looking fwd to another night outdoors. (I’m sure I’ll get it tomorrow.) For now, jacuzzi for the feet sounds nice…

It hit 90 degrees here today, and I remained indoors during the hottest hours. I therefore embarked on a few hours of night walking to make up for lost time. I’m hoping to make it 79 miles to Odessa by Sunday…

Crossing the Pecos River. Significance: through the late 1800′s, the popular term “Wild West” meant west of the Pecos River.

Home of “Pecos Bill!”
Interestingly, though I awoke outdoors to below-freezing temps upon entering Pecos, I arrived to town on a day which I believe reached 91– technically still in winter.

A couple of hours into the day, I reached the western beginning of Interstate 20– the first time I’ve decisively split from I-10 since the Pacific Ocean. I’m leaning toward continuing on I-20 through Dallas, Shreveport, Jackson and Atlanta. We’ll see where the path ultimately leads me, eh?
Interestingly, within maybe three miles of branching up into I-10, the rocky desert hillsides immediately opened up into far-as-one-can-see great plains. Amazing.

Five miles into the morning, I see the sign that brings an end to over a thousand miles of walking on, near, or parallel to Interstate 10: Interstate 20 begins here. So long, I-10, it’s been lovely…

I-10, miles behind me, is full of mountains. I-20 brings an extremely fast change of landscape: plains. I entered the wide, flat, horizon-as-far-as-you-can-see Texas plains within the first five miles of I-20. It’s quite the transition.

WARNING: Hundreds of miles of endless plains ahead!

A look back before dark

Sunset du jour

30 miles of walking today ended with energy for even more miles, but this freeway “picnic area” seemed like it should be the perfect fit for the night. I’ve rolled out my sleeping bag and mat atop a nine-foot long, grated metal picnic table. Truckers use picnic areas as rest areas during the night. It’s going to dip just below freezing tonight, but I feel secure here

I awoke to an incredibly windy day today– so windy in fact that I honestly wondered why passing truckers weren’t slowing or stopping more often than I found them to be. Fortunately, I did see them slowing. Thank goodness, the wind was often at my back, and I never had to walk into it. The day full of miles brought me through the largely abandoned I-10 outpost of Kent, Texas.

Last night’s sleeping spot: just out of view from the passing autos, mostly shielded from the wind, and strategically fencing out coyote or other large local wildlife. (I did, however, smell a skunk very nearby late last night.) I do look fwd to arriving to Pecos on Tuesday, where the Oak Tree Inn is hosting me to two complimentary nights. For now, sleeping in the “wild” is working out

The first structure I’ve come across in nearly twenty miles, as I pulled into Kent a few minutes ago… (I was later told it was an abandoned school house)

This is Kent, Texas. This tiny, closed store, with an attached, out of commission gas station, and a barred post office around the side that appears to have once imprisoned people.

The road ahead, from Kent. It has been a VERY windy day– my windiest outdoor experience yet– I’ve almost been knocked down multiple times. I’ve worn my rainjacket to shield me from the powerful, punishing gusts. It’s 4:30 here: 15 miles down, 10 or so to go…

In what I thought was the middle of nowhere, a Chevron station appeared on I-10, exit 181. There is a tiny food mart attached, and a quartet of little homes next to it. Tony, who is working here till 8 PM, and lives next door, has invited me to camp tonight in front of his place. I was gonna go for more miles today, but instead I’ll accept Tony’s offer to camp in front of his place. Works for me. I hope to make it close to Toyah, TX, tomorrow.

Sunset from the gas station on the hill. Happy ending to a blustery day

Van Horn’s Baptist church pastor directed me to the KOA Campground yesterday, and KOA staff members Dave & Laura, on either side, warmly welcomed me. Dennis, the park owner (middle), decided to host me to a free night at the park. He ended up treating me to dinner in the park restaurant as well (delicious!). I was invited to set up a tent anywhere, and then invited to spend the night in the clubhouse/rec room. I spent the night in the warm clubhouse, the first time in a week I didn’t need to put on layers before going to bed (rather nice).
As the front tire of my Chariot had gone flat amid infinite desert thorns, Dave directed me to the Napa, on the way out of town, where I purchased more Green Slime to keep the tires full (I’d filled the side tires last week, but forgot the front tire– duh…). The building across the street seemed to “call” to me…

Dave, Dennis & Laura of the Van Horn KOA